Wednesday, April 6, 2011
One year wrapup: yard and landscaping
One year wrapup: contractor work items
1. Master bathroom door casing needs to be replaced with one piece (currently it is split and made of two pieces)
2. Casing for garage man-doors needs to be finished
3. Finish trim-out on front porch support posts
4. Shorten depth of bottom drawer under cooktop so it closes all the way (currently it hits the gas supply line)
One year wrapup: water
After several months of living here however, I started to notice that:
1. We were getting some tan-colored scale buildup on several fixtures (not a lot, but definitely noticeable).
2. Toilet bowls were getting stained more quickly than we were used to.
3. When my wife used the bathtub in our master bath, the water showed a definite yellow-ish tinge, and left a ring after being drained (No I did NOT blame this on her...what you think I'm crazy??)
As it turns out one of my new neighbors owns a water filtration company (Clean Water Systems NW), so I asked him to come over and take a look. On his visit he checked out the ph of the water (fine), and did quick some iron and manganese tests using portable test equipment, and took away some samples for further testing. Bottom line after the results came in was that we had low-to-moderate hard water, plus some ferric iron, plus some manganese in our water.
He recommended a system that included:
1. A pre-filter for larger solids
2. An iron\manganese filter, with automatic backflushing, based on Pyrolox filter media.
3. A Scale Blaster for reducing hardness.
After my usual thorough (IMO) research, I decided to take his recommendations. The Scale Blaster product looked like snake oil at first, but they have a lot of testimonials to suggest otherwise; also a different neighbor has it installed with good results.
We did run into an issue on where to locate the iron\manganese filter. I didn't have room in the "mechanical alcove" in the garage, and I didn't want to lose any more floor space in the garage, so in the end I decided to put it up in the garage attic. (Before next winter I will need to insulate the piping a bit more to be safe, but I think it will be okay.)
The installation went smooth and easy. When the installer cut into the copper supply pipe (just downstream from the pressure tank), he showed me the inside of the pipe - wow was there a ton of sediment in there! Made me glad we decided to get this system - I don't want all of that dirt in our water, appliances, water heater, etc!
This is my garage attic, after fifteen months of living here:
I extended the lighting circuit to add the two new bulbs at the far end - huge improvement, it was such a cave before. Note, you can't see the new water system stuff in the above picture (it's behind the scaffolding supports). This isn't the best picture, but here it is:
The oval-shaped white thing is an automatic water-shutoff valve, hooked up a sensor "puck" sitting below the equipment on the subfloor. The Scale Blaster is the white box screwed into the board underneath the rafters. The computer-looking thing above the blue filter bottle is what controls the periodic backflushing (once per week) to keep the filter media clean and efficient.
Things I'd do differently next time:
1. Have a dedicated mechanical room for all of the water and HVAC stuff.
2. Install a water filter system during construction (or at least reserve space for it).
One year wrapup: heating and cooling
I went with warmboard over a gypcrete-based solution mainly due to a lot of discussions I saw on the Internet regarding where do you want to store your buffer of heat. With gypcrete-based designs, you store a lot of that heat in the floor; some people advertise this as a good thing but my position is that it's better to keep that heat in your water reservoir until needed (or better yet, forego heating that water at all). Which leads to my next comment which is that our floors & heating system do respond quite rapidly to changes in the thermostat temperatures. Based on subjective feeling, I can sense the changes within ~15 minutes of turning the heat up or down. This was one of the key promises of Warmboard which has been fulfilled imo.
The zone heating is also more effective than I had dared to hope for - I love keeping our master bathroom at ~74-75 deg F, and the master bedroom itself at ~70 deg F - makes nightime bathroom trips quite comfortable. Despite this being "radiant heating", a lot of heat goes up the stairwell and I have only turned on the upstairs heat about three times in the past year (when visiting family came to stay with us). Makes me shake my head - I have a ton of money invested in that upstairs warmboard and the associated radiant plumbing system, and it's hardly getting used! :) Ah well, I still say better safe than sorry.
I have a lingering concern as to whether or not the Unico reverse-cycle chiller is really as economical as advertised - my monthly electric bills have been much higher than expected in cold months. (This may be because I was accustomed to our old house which was 1) smaller and 2) heated with natural gas.) In addition, although quiet the drone of the chiller can get annoying after awhile - a propane-fired primary boiler would have been 100% silent; I also wonder even if we keep the chiller, if a propane-fired backup boiler would have recovered heat more quickly than the electric backup we went with. (As I recall, I wanted to go electric for the most part to obviate the need for periodic propane tank refills.) Finally, I remember the heating company guys saying our chiller was going to be very efficient because it's just barely big enough for the job (3.5 tons). This was supposedly a good thin, but I wonder if that's why it runs so often when it's cold out. At some point I need to figure out how to do an exact cost analysis on my monthly costs.
Still - I'm not going to change out any of these heating system components anytime soon. I am thinking of swapping out the thermostats with some programmable units (normally folks don't bother with those with radiant heating, but I think they would work well with the fast-responding Warmboard).
The system works "pretty well" in air-conditioning mode. There is a huge amount of south-facing wall on this house that acts as a heat sink, and the system operates near continuously on hot summer days. On the hottest days I would have to say that the system is slightly overwhelmed. I think we could improve this by opening some upstairs windows late in the afternoon, to help the system remove much of hot air in the house. An attic-based whole-house fan looks appealing for that same purpose as well.
In retrospect I would have:
1. Located the chiller way over by the garage and far away from living spaces
2. Installed a whole-house attic fan.